Black Halo Racing's Motor Mounts

Picture direct from Black Halo Racing's website

There is something to be said about a car part that you can look at, and seriously consider it a work of art. The team over at Black Halo Racing never fail to produce top notch results, as they focus heavily on the quality and usability aspects of their products. They have recently released these beautiful replacement motor mounts for the RX-8. These mounts will last a LOT longer than the OEM mounts that are prone to failing quickly (even the revised mounts are not lasting as long as most would like). Let’s have a closer look.

Polished Makeover

Rawr...

I may not be a female expert, but as far as I know, most women like to get makeovers when they're depressed. I figured, "what better way to cheer up Serenity than to pamper her with a full polish and detail?". Since we couldn't make it out to Nationals this year, this was the least I could do. Big thanks to Jordan for helping me out with a lot of this, especially the polishing part, as the car had never been fully detailed before it seemed.

Bad Camber Bolts?

On the alignment rack

Since the previous few posts, I've been trying to sort out a lot of kinks in the suspension to get everything nice and balanced, especially for the upcoming SCCA National Tour. After coming up with a game plan, I decided to mess with the alignment a little. That's when I ran into a minor problem while trying to get realigned. The passenger side could easily gain a lot of camber, while the driver side was maxing out only at -2.1 degrees. Clearly, something was not right here.

Stuck Swaybars?

Dry bushings can't be very helpful I bet

While I was changing the front swaybar from the full-stiff setting to medium-stiffness, I came across something really interesting. After I disconnected my endlinks, I had tried to move my front swaybar up and down to see how well the grease I applied at the beginning of April was holding up. With one hand, the bar didn't budge. With two hands, the bar didn't budge. With two hands pushing pretty hard, still no movement. Taking a rubber mallet to the bar, not an inch. I loosened the bushings on both sides, and STILL no movement with the rubber mallet! After removing the bushings, I noticed that the bushings and bar was completely bone dry. Within a little under two months, the grease had apparently dried out.

Ti Gri's Engine Bay Overview - Part 1

Ti Gri in her full glory!

After a month and a half, I finally got Ti Gri back in my hands. I originally was going to hold off on this post for a bit so I could clean up various things on the car, but I decided to post the condition of the car the way I got it back from Speed 1. In their defense, I did go to pick it up early (which was after almost two months of waiting). The work that was done was great, however, there were a couple of important things that were overlooked in my opinion. Let's have a look...

Ready, Steady, Brap!

Yes "brap", and plenty of it! This past weekend the RE-Zelse team was working on the Blueberry's motor at Wankel Works. Luis and Raul from Wankel Works allowed the team to work with them throughout the build. When the motor was broken down Luis was able to spot weaknesses in my previous porting. Needless to say, Luis custom ported the irons.

Engine Issues Resolved

I was chasing down a "gurgling/fluttering" noise at 8,000RPM for a little over a month recently. The noise was very noticeable and had gotten me very concerned, so I could simply not ignore it. After a lot of digging around and countless times of ripping things apart, I figured out what I was faced with. The interesting part of this however is that not only did I figure out the problem, I learned that I was chasing 3 separate problems. I thought I would share my findings with everyone, just incase someone should run into a similar issue.

Engine Mounts Filled With Polyurethane

Not many solutions seem to be out there for the RX-8 in terms of alternative engine mounts. The original 2004 to 2005 version was flawed in design as they didn't last long, forcing owners to replace them somewhere between every 30,000 to 50,000 miles. In 2006, the engine mounts were revised to be much more efficient and longer lasting.
This DIY goes over how to take your engine mounts and turn them into some very nice and stiff engine mounts that you won't have to ever replace. We used Dave's engine mounts on his RX-8, which is the 2004 version, not the upgraded version. Be sure to check out this thread on RX-8 club with a nice writeup from Team RX8.

Tools & Materials

• Wooden Ruler
• Paint Thinner
• Drill and a 1/4" - 3/8" diameter drill bit
• Sharp Knife (that you don't care about getting fluid on)
• Oil Catcher
• Clothing to wear that you don't care about staining permanently
• Blow Dryer
• Canned Air
• Polyurethane base and activator (I purchased mine from McMaster-Carr and it's item #8644k11)

Process

A couple of quick notes. This write-up assumes you already have the engine mounts removed from the car. Be sure to double check them for any cracks or leaks, because doing this to a damaged mount is not advisable. Also, the polyurethane takes 48 hours to cure, so be sure to do this when you won't need to use your car for a few days.

1. Start by turning the mount upside down and removing the top rubber cover of the mount with the knife
2. After you have removed the cover, be sure to empty out as much of the fluid as possible. The fluid smells and will stain your clothes pretty good, so be careful!
3. At the center hole, you will notice a rubbery layer. Carefully cut that out with the knife, trying not to puncture all the way down and through the entire mount
4. Skip this step if you have 2004-2005 engine mounts - The upgraded engine mounts have no circular opening, so you will need to drill in the center carefully and make your own circular opening in the center
5. Once you have cut out and removed the rubber layer, you should see a honeycomb-like design inside the mount. Those pouches are what will be filled with polyurethane
6. Now drill 6-8 holes around the middle hole in the engine mount with your drill. You will feel as you are drilling down, the drill going through 3 layers. The moment you feel the 3rd layer, pull back so you do not accidentally drill through the mount.
7. Once you have made your holes, check them to be sure you drilled all the way through the hard brown layers and down to the black rubber surface. Use the canned air to clean out any excess shavings left by the drill
8. Now fill the mount with your paint thinner and clean it out as much as possible. You can use water as a first pass, or go straight to the paint thinner, whatever you feel comfortable with
9. Once it looks like all of the fluid has been cleaned out, use your blow dryer, on high setting, to dry out the inside of the mount. I held my mount upside down for about 5 minutes with the blow dryer pressed against it
10. Once the mount is completely dry inside, prop both mounts on a flat surface, with support to ensure they don't accidentally get tipped over. Remember, these mounts will be sitting wherever you place them, for 48 hours
11. Take your polyurethane base can and mix in ALL of the activator for 5 minutes. BE SURE TO DO THIS OUTSIDE as the warning says. I also thought their wooden stick was too small to stir, so I liked using a long wooden ruler instead
12. Once you have mixed everything, begin by very slowly pouring it into the center of the engine mount. Pace the pouring slowly so that everything can settle nicely and the air can escape. Switch from mount to mount if need be as well
13. After some time, you'll start to notice the polyurethane rise up from the center and the side holes. Keep filling slowly until you have a nice, flat, even surface at the top of the mount
14. Once you're done pouring, you can take the ruler and run it slowly across the top of the mount so that you can ensure it's flat. Be sure to clean up any mess around the mount because it is bound to happen!
15. After clean up, let it sit for 48 hours before placing back into your car!

Outcome

I noticed a huge difference right away when I drove my car, but then again, my passenger engine mount was collapsed previously. The throttle response was greatly increased to the point that it feels like the car is drive-by-cable. Less slop in the shifter as well I noticed, but definitely an interesting feeling being able to feel the power go to the rear tires more. Overall, it feels as though I had gotten a brand new engine put into my car, so I'm overly pleased with the results. I highly recommend this to everyone. It's very very affordable, a fun project, and easy to do with some patience! With the end result being that you will then have engine mounts that will never collapse, how could you say no? Happy Motoring!

Delrin Upper Control Arm Bushings

Mazdaspeed sells some amazing delrin bushings for the front upper and lower control arms made by SpeedSource. Since my class rules specify that I can change the material, but not the type of bushing (aftermarket bushings for the lower control arm change them from cylindrical to spherical), I only picked up a set of upper control arm bushings.

HOWEVER, If there is a DIY on here that I seriously disliked performing, it would be this one. I think doing the rear differential was easier than dealing with these things! Heck, even SpeedSource said to Mazdaspeed when we called for help, "haha...Oh man, I wouldn't wish that job on anyone." That being said, make sure you have a lot of patience and time for this job. Each bushing without torching, took us between an hour to two hours.

Tools & Materials

• Torch
• Gloves that will handle very hot temperatures
• A Breathing Mask
• Goggles
• Vice Clamps
• Pry Bar
• Hard, Flat, Raised Surface or Work Bench
• 4 or 5 lb. Hammer
• Rubber Mallet
• A strong metal pick or bit
• Reciprocating Saw
• Brake Grease (we used some copper colored brake grease that worked nicely)
• Penetrating Oil
• Beer and Friends to enjoy the smoke show that will take place

Process Please note, this guide assumes you have the upper control arms removed already, but if not, there are a few DIYs out there. It's relatively straight forward, just be cautious when installing the ball-joint back into the knuckle after, as that took me quite some time to figure out a way to get enough load to press the upper control arm down into the knuckle to prevent the ball-joint from spinning when tightening the nut.

1. Start by getting your torch and safety gear ready, and in a very open area outside, torch out the bushings. NOTE do NOT breath this stuff in... you WILL feel like you're dying for the next week
2. Once you get the bushings melted out, try using the bit to scrape off as much excess rubber as possible
3. Once you do this, you'll see the problem that, makes this a tricky task. The OEM rubber bushings sit inside a metal cylinder that is separate from the control arm...and yes, it needs to come out

4. Using your reciprocating saw, cut into the thin metal of the cylinder, cutting into sections like a pizza
5. After cutting the sections, take the bit to the cylinder, and start hammering away at the bit with your 4 or 5 lb. Hammer. The goal is to collapse the cylinder on itself so you can just hammer it out after. Spraying penetrating oil between the cylinder and control arm will help once you start making enough of a dent into the metal cylinder
6. Once you deform the cylinder enough, you should be able to use the pry bar to pull it out, or hammer it out
7. If you used the penetrating oil, be sure to clean inside the control arm as much as possible

8. Here comes tricky part number 2. Using the rubber mallet, with no lube, hammer in the delrin bushing into the control arm, but NOT the same way as OEM as it will not fit. Instead, hammer in the bushing from the inside, out. Notice the picture below
9. Once the bushings are in, grease the metal sleeves that slide inside the bushings with the brake grease and hammer those in
10. Make sure the cylinders and bushings are as flush as can be, otherwise you will be fighting a losing war. We had to frequently pull out the control arm and keep hammering down the bushings, then check fitment again and again before we somehow managed to pull it off.
11. Once this is done, reassemble the suspension, torque down the necessary bolts to proper specifications, and then go for a test drive!

Removable Steering Wheel

I picked up a 330mm Nardi Torino steering wheel in black suede, matched with the NRG short hub and the version 2.0 quick release from my sponsor Dan at Assaultech. Having an aftermarket steering wheel has a lot of benefits such as being able to have the wheel close to you without having to have your seat so close (so you don't hit your knees), being able to turn the wheel less and get a lot more turning out of the car (when switching to a smaller steering wheel), easier to get in and out of the car when it is removable, and is an added layer of security.

Since I've used the steering wheel for several weeks now, I figure now would be a good time to write up the DIY on how to do this since I haven't run into any problems thus far. This should only take between 1-2 hours.


Tools & Materials

• Phillips Screw Driver
• Electrical Tape
• 18 Gauge Electrical Wire
• Knife
• Scissors
• 2.2 Ohm 1/4th Watt Resistors
• Steering Wheel Puller
• 21mm Deep Socket
• 12mm Deep Socket
• 1/2" Ratchet

OEM Removal Process
I'm not going into detail too much on how to remove the steering wheel as there are many DIYs out there, as this is more for the removable steering wheel aspect.

1. Start by making sure your wheels are completely straight, and your steering wheel is just as straight as your wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery to the car and let it discharge. This is so you won't accidentally blow the airbag in your face
3. Go ahead and remove the steering wheel airbag and then the steering wheel
4. The black piece in front of you is the clock spring... BE CAREFUL with this as you can over rotate it and rip the wires within it. Unscrew that off and unplug the connectors to it. Maybe get a piece of tape to tape it down in place so it wont rotate on you

Horn Process

1. Here comes the fun part. Be sure to reference the pictures as they'll make this easier to understand what I'm talking about.
2. Lets start with wiring up the horn. Take the small connector as seen in the picture, and notice the holes in it
3. The very far left hole is for the horn, so you'll want to cut a piece of that wire you purchased, cut the casing of the wire, and fit the wire into that hole. Wrap with electrical tape to secure in place
4. Cut the other end of the wire casing so that the copper is exposed
5. Fan out the copper of the wire so it is like a brush as it will be brushing up against the steering boss
6. Tape it in place on the column as seen here as that seems to be the best location

Airbag Resistors Process

1. The ends of the resistors fit perfectly into the holes for the airbag connector, but can get a bit cumbersome. I bent them backwards so they looped and brought them forward so the spacing was a perfect fit
2. You will need a resistor for the first two holes, and another resistor for the other two holes
3. Once down, I made sure they were in as deep as possible, then pressed the resistor against the body of the connector, then electrical taped them down

Steering Wheel Process

1. The rest is easy from here. Take your steering boss and line it up so it is center on the steering column. NOTE be careful with the two plastic knobs that stick out. You should have two holes in the boss for those to fit into
2. Once the boss is on straight, look behind it to make sure the plastic knobs are securely in the holes, and that the frayed wire is brushing against the contact surface of the boss
3. Tighten the 21mm bolt back onto the column, making sure to hold the boss on straight when doing so
4. Connect the two wire connectors for the horn then tighten down the cover for the boss. If you have a removable steering wheel, that is what your steering wheel will attach to
5. Assemble the horn onto your wheel, and the back-end side of the wheel adapter onto the steering wheel
6. Press the wheel onto the column to ensure it secures in place
7. Double check the steering wheel is on straight and that the wheels are straight
8. Connect the battery and start up the car to see if the airbag light comes on, and if your horn works. If both are good, you can patch up the steering column plastic covers and go for a test drive!

All in all, this was a fun DIY as I had to figure out what the resistance was for the airbags (which is the same as the seats, so that makes me think the whole car must be the same then), and get creative with making the horn work. There are some cleaner kits out there from Daiki BOSS or Fujita Engineering, but I didn't know this at the time of purchase so I had to come up with my own solutions. I hope this works out for everyone, but feel free to contact me if you run into any snags or have any questions. Stay tuned!

Old Friend and a Pesky Airbag Light

I met up with an old friend I haven't seen in about 13 years. Good friend of mine that I grew up with when I was living in New Hampshire. It was great to spend the day with him and his girlfriend working on our cars, as it was a nice change of scenery and pace from everything lately. Tom is currently working on an awesome RX-7 FC build, looking to compete in local drift events and maybe even some autocross. Having done all the work himself on the car, from rewiring the entire harness, fixing up the engine and more, he's put a lot of time and effort into the car, so I can't wait to see the end result.
We were going to punch out two quick things on my car then work on his, but as usual with my car, those two things took a lot longer than expected. Looks like I owe him some more beer and time to help him with whatever comes his way to work on his car in the future. We took care of my slanted seat issue I was having, as my Corbeau seat wasn't cut fully flat in the rear, propping it up in one corner awkwardly so I would be sitting crocked.

Using his FC as a work table, Tom used his sawzall to cut the rear pegs of the seat down flat, smoothing it out nicely. Since the seats were out, we looked into my airbag light problem as well. I followed some instructions I found on the RX-8 club but they weren't really explain well enough, and this is how I ran into problems. So, I decided to make this into a quick DIY for all those other RX-8 drivers out there who are looking to swap in a replacement bucket seat.

Supplies:

• Electrical Tape
• Seat Position Sensor for the Driver Side
• 2.0 Ohm 1 Watt Resistor (NOT 2.2 K.. AVOID the K. This is where I went wrong.)

No need to even really put steps on this as it's very straight forward. Simply bend the prongs of the resistor a bit so you can slip it into the connectors of the airbag sensor plug. Do this for both sides. Then simply apply some electrical tape ontop of the resistors to cover any dust from getting into the plug.
For the seat position sensor, Tom was awesome enough to rivet it to the hump in the floor that is by the front of the seat (you can't miss it). Nothing special there, as long as it is connected and tied to something or located somewhere.And voila! That's it. The airbag light is gone and no more issues with that thankfully, as that light was always bothering me in the back of my mind when driving around. Big thanks again to Tom for the good times and helping me with these two things. To end the day, we had a quick photo shoot of the two cars side by side. You will be hearing more about Tom and his progress on his car, as well as his progress into the world of drifting in future posts, so until then, stay tuned.

Quick Shave

If you recall in the previous post, the Corbeau FX1 Pro seats are much too high, especially with the seat padding in. Big ups to Dan from Assaultech for contacting Corbeau for me on this trick here. Apparently you can remove the rear feet from the seats for better fitment/extra headroom. Corbeau specified to remove the rear feet only, and to remove up to 3/4'. Thing is, 3/4' is pretty much the entire rear foot, measured from the smallest point of the foot. Big ups to Shane for his lumber jacking of the feet all night. We used a six inch hack saw to cut them off, while using a filer to round off any edges if need be. If we were to do it again though... Shane says Reciprocating saw or a sawsall.

If you are doing this mod yourself to your own set of Corbeau FX1 Pro seats, take a look around the seat for the smaller bolts that allow you to side mount the seat. I used those smaller bolts for the rear pegs, as the normal bolts would protrude the bottom of the seat, and would be quite hard to sit down or even use the cushion.

Once we did this modification, the seats were a perfect height. Without the cushions, I sat a touch lower than stock, while with the cushions I sat just a touch higher than stock. I will still need to take out the seat cushions to fit my helmet perfectly, but I can have them in and be comfortable while driving on the street. honestly, I wish the seats came from Corbeau with this height difference as the seat feels much more comfortable with the slight lean, cradling the driver comfortably, along with the extra headroom is always a plus.

Some quick pictures of the cutting in action.

Odyssey P680 Battery Mounted

We mounted the Odyssey PC-680 battery when in down time from the other projects going on. This became a bit of a pain at times as there was no real DIY written up for this surprisingly. I have seen many similar "builds" to this, but no real writeup. Looks like I'll be changing that here! Below is a picture of the measurements needed for the firewall mount, which is what your battery mount will mount to.It's pretty straight forward. We used a half inch thick cutting board we picked up from Shaws, got the biggest size we could get. Cut the plastic cutting board with the dremel with the following measurements. The opening I cut at the top is because of the strut bar I have. Measure where you want your battery mount to be and bolt up to the plastic board and drill your holes accordingly. Oleg decided to try out T Nuts for the backing of the plastic and that idea worked out great for us. I also spray painted the mount black after I was done just to clean it up a bit.Didn't want to go into too much details on the DIY with this one as we had to feel out a lot of the steps we did and I have a feeling someone out there can maybe do better with just the pictures and comments I have listed here. Pretty straight forward for the most part though, just time consuming.

Modified AEM Intake

Looks like the winter project has come to an end finally! This post and a few following are some of the stuff that was done while the car was sleeping for the winter. Shouldn't be too much of a surprise as I can't really keep it quiet what I had planned! Want to give a big ups to everyone that helped me with all of the projects as they busted their asses helping me out. Oleg, James, Jordan, Shane, Dan and Lou. Good times everyone.

I had purchased the AEM Intake for the car as I had read some great write-up done by Eric Meyer about the best intake to match his exhaust build (which is very similar to what I will be building for an exhaust soon). Apparently the AEM/Mazdaspeed intake setup, but modified with a single 90' degree bend instead of two, seems to make the most overall power and torque. This is very desirable as I need more push when it comes to autocross, especially in 2nd gear.

We installed the AEM intake the standard way as listed in it's instructions (kind of a no brainer, no need for a writeup), just make sure that the piping is as straight and flush as possible as that can cause problems for the air if it's not. Once we had it all in, we verified the filter could fit on the piping if we made a cut on it or not (which it can!). After a few dremel disks and some WD40 to lubricate the cutting, Oleg pulled it off nice and smooth.

We washed off all the metal shards from the pipe, because you really don't want that stuff going into your engine, and then installed the piping, followed by the filter. The results is seen in the pictures here, and it looks pretty aggressive. The filter just lightly sits on the plastic undertray, luckily not too much that it pushes it down. I can't wait to test out it out at the start of the season and see just how much it will help, especially when paired with my upcoming exhaust build. The sound it makes when revving is interesting as I swear I could hear the engine coming straight from the intake filter and not the actual engine or even exhaust.

I'll be heat wrapping this at some point so it doesn't get too hot with the engine temperatures. Also, for the water sock for the filter, I plan to keep that on for the most part except dry events. No need to have it off on the streets really.

Pads And Rotors

Talk about some good times with some good beer (except for that Dogfish beer that you brought Oleg... Dave said it best, tasted like a sandwhich). Got together with a lot of people today to install the new brake pads and rotors that I got back in November. Unfortunately due to it being colder that I would've hoped for, I couldn't paint the brake calipers while we were down there. I'll have to save that for another time.
Big ups to everyone that came to help and even just to hang out, I really appreciate the help and the company. Special big thanks to Oleg, Dave and Mike for teaching me the ins and outs of doing a full brake job on a car. As I was observing and learning how to do it more than actually doing it, this won't be a DIY until next brake job. Seemed very straight forward though, and there are plenty of posts on RX8 Club on how to do this.Can't wait for some warmth so I can bed these new pads in though! What I do have for you at least (besides the cool pictures of the brakes) is the bedding procedure, should you be interested in getting your own set. This information was taken straight from Axxis' website.

Procedure:

1. Accelerate vehicle to 40 MPH
2. Apply brakes using light to moderate pedal effort to reduce speed to approximately 10 MPH
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 at least ten times, allowing 1/4 mile between cycles

Under no circumstances drive the vehicle with the brakes continually applied as a break-in procedure because:

1. Excessive heat will be generated
2. Resins will burn
3. Loss of braking efficiency could occur

Prepping For Winter

Getting the car ready for winter can be a bit tricky it seems, as you want to make sure you don't leave anything out. This is the first year the car will be in the garage all winter, so I had spoke to a few people to see what was necessary for proper storage. In short, your list should look something like this.

• Quick Wash
• Oil Change
• Coolant Change
• Top Off Gas Tank with Gasoline Stabilizer
• Park Car on Cardboard Pieces
• Block Off Wheels with Wheel Chocks
• Release E-Brake
• Inflate Tires to 50PSI
• Set Shocks to Full Soft
• Empty Glove Box and Other Compartments
• Place Dryer Sheets in Car to Avoid Musty Smell
• Remove Battery and Connect to Battery Tender
• Block Tail Pipes, Cooling Ducts, etc. with Rags to Keep Animals Out
• Close Windows
• Set Vents to Open
• Cover (If Not in Garage)
• Detail Throughout Winter

I plan to do some detailing while it sits in the garage, like clay off some overspray I had gotten earlier in the year on the car, polish the exhaust tips, other goodies. As for the list, I had to do this all this weekend due to the snow coming. Really wish I could've installed my new brakes first, but oh well! Thanks to Dave and James for help with this list here.

Autopower Rollbar

Looks like I finally got to install my rollbar that has been hanging out in the garage for over a month! I want to give a big thanks to Oleg and Josh for their help in this little project, and thanks to James and Expo1 on how to install, tips for sealing and undercoating, the works. As you can see, the final result came out awesome and I was really happy that I painted the rear and bar flat black, as everything came out smooth and blended perfect. One of the added benefits of doing the interior the same color as the rollbar is that when we scratched a bit of the metal to install the bar, I just sprayed it after with flat black.

Below is my guide on how I did the install. I was recommended to do it one way, and read somewhere else to do it another, but so I'm glad to hear suggestions for other viewers but this way is how we approached it and it came out great!

Tools to have should be

1. Power Drill
2. Lubricant for the Drill Bit (we used PB Blast)
3. 3/8 Drill Bit
4. 14 Open End Wrench
5. 14 Socket with Wrench
6. Rustolium Underbody Rubberized Spray
7. Black RTV Silicone Sealant
8. Touch up paint (if you care about scrapes inside your car)
9. Phillips Screw Driver
10. Normal Tools to remove your wheels (socket, jackstands and jack, etc)
11. Trusty and "overly willing to help" friend
12. Patience and food

Now, we started off with the car already gutted (if you had read the previous post you'll see that my carpet has been removed from front chairs to the back and the rest of the rear is gone) so we had little to no prep work other than pushing the seats forward as much as possible. Once you're done prepping the rear by removing the rear seats, the side plastic coverings, and pushing the carpet out of the way, follow the steps below.

1. Bring the rollbar into the car with your friend. Be sure to have one of you follow the bar into the car, climbing over the powerplant frame and out the other side. Just guide the feet through, and aim the top of the bar towards the rear of the car.
2. Once the bar is in, position it so that the feet of the rollbar is on the floor and against the back of the rear seat molding? Not sure what you call it, but basically put the feet back as far as you can. That is where you'll want the rollbar in the end.
3. Place in the legs into the rollbar. Line up the holes in the legs with the holes on the rollbar piping. Be sure that the feet of the back legs are set so the 2 holes are faced down and not up. (look at the backing picture below)
4. Bolt in the the legs onto the rollbar. Be sure to use the neoprene nuts for the bolts on the legs.
5. Once the legs are prepared properly, slide the rollbar back in the car as much as possible so that the feet of the hoop are against the frame where you saw before.
6. We started drilling the feet of the hoop with the drill, doing one hole at a time. We drilled one hole on the right side, then one hole on the left.
7. After the drill, we bolted those holes so it would help keep the rollbar in place during the drilling of the other holes.
8. From here, we drilled so that it was a cross pattern like putting on a wheel. So if you do do the bottom right hole, you want to do the upper left hole. Be sure to bolt the holes after you make them.
9. Once the hoop legs are done and bolted in decently enough to hold it in place, it's time to jack the car up to do the rear.
10. Once the car is jacked up at the rear, be sure to remove the rear wheels, and rear wheel well lining.
11. Go into the car and do the same as you did with the hoop feet..one at a time on each side, with a bolt right after to keep it firmly in.
12. Once all holes are drilled, we took the nuts off the bottom of the feet to the hoop to prepare the backing plate. Spread RTV Silicone sealant all over the plate so that it will seal once you place it up against the bottom of the car. Place some nuts under the plates to hold the plates in place for the hoop.
13. Do the same for the wheel well bolts now.
14. Once plates are on all feet, under the car, its time to start really bolting in the bar. We started tightening the hoop first, getting one side a decent amount, then making the opposite side identically tight.
15. After the two hoop feet are decently tight (not full), do the same for the rear feet in the wheel well.
16. From here start tightening all of the bolts until you no longer can, evenly throughout the car. A final step we did to ensure the bolts were on as tight as possible was took the impact gun to the top of the feet (in the car) while another person used the wrench to keep the nut from moving under the car.
17. After a couple of quick jolts, the bolts are as tight as possible. From here put on the remaining nuts onto the bolt so that the end result is two nuts per bolt (see picture of finished bottom)
18. Once done and ensuring that everything is torqued nicely, spread RTV Silicone along the edges of the plating under the car. You'll notice that RTV has come out since you compressed the plate against the car, creating a smoosh effect. Just be sure to spread enough around the plating so that it's as sealed as possible.
19. Once done with the sealant, the last step will be to spray the rustolium undercoating rubber spray all over the plating and bolts under the car, and inside the wheel well. This will ensure that everything is protected and sealed so you won't run into any rusting issues in the near future.
20. Once done, patch the car back up and you should be done! Be sure to touch up any scrapes or scratches that may have happened while installing the bar.

To wrap harnesses around the rollbar, I followed this video from Schroth on youtube. I'm not sure if this is the completely correct way to wrap it, but I'm sure they know their stuff.
Video